Each year as summer approaches we get numerous e-mails and calls asking us about natural, non-toxic flea protocol for their dog or cat.

In our opinion the best protocol utilizes a consistent, integrated approach to flea management and one that minimizes risks to humans, the animal's health, non-targeted organisms and the environment.

A good first step is to know as much as possible about the target, in this case the flea. According to statistics published in The Whole Dog Journal, the "cat flea" is what we find in the greatest numbers on our dogs and in our homes. Cat fleas represent about 85 to 95 percent of all household fleas found in North America. In addition to the cat flea the "human flea" and the "dog flea" can also be found. Their bites can cause various problems in dogs including an allergic reaction known as "flea allergy dermatitis", tape-worm and in severe cases anemia.

The flea moves through four stages of life: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The average life span of a flea is about six weeks, but under certain conditions they can live for up to one year. While in the adult stage, the flea lives on our dog's skin and even lays eggs there. But, the eggs laid by females (up to 200-600 eggs in her lifetime) fall off and hatch in the environment, not on the animal.

As these eggs hatch, the emerging larva feed on the feces of the adult flea, which makes our dogs bedding an ideal place for fleas to develop. The larva are worm-like and burrow down into any available dark areas such as cracks in flooring, crevices and under furniture cushions. Outdoors they may migrate to areas underneath leaf piles, decks or porches. After a week or two the larva spins a cocoon and stays in this cocoon up to 140 days before hatching into an adult. While in the cocoon the flea pupa is protected from insecticides and other external threats.

The larva finally emerge as adults when stimulated by such things as heat, vibration, moisture, physical pressure or carbon dioxide and especially anything that suggests a warm blooded host is available!

At any given time only about 1% of the flea population is at the adult stage, 14% are in the pupal stage, 35% are in the larva stage and 50% are in the egg stage.

Fleas prefer a temperature of 65 to 80 degrees and humidity of 75 to 85 percent.

So how do you implement a consistent, integrated approach to flea management? To do this correctly you need to treat not only your dog but your indoor and outdoor environments. Our suggestions for managing the flea problem would include:

Begin with your dog…

It may sound strange but one of the most important steps you can take is to improve your dog's health and strengthen the immune system. Don Hamilton DVM and author of Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs: Small Doses for Small Animals says. " In general, given the same environment, healthier animals suffer less from fleas. It comes back to good food, lots of love, and minimal stress." Dr. Hamilton prefers a human grade food, preferably a raw meat diet, dietary supplements and a clean indoor environment and no vaccinations.

A health dog is a less likely target for fleas. Fleas seem to know which dogs are ill in a household. A healthy immune system will make your dog less tasty to a flea.

Use dietary supplements…..

Supplements containing Garlic, Vitamin B complex such as Nupro Supplement or Yeast and Garlic Bits can be useful in repelling fleas and providing additional healthful nutrients to your dog.

Bathe your dog….

During the height of flea season bathe your dog weekly with a non-insecticidal shampoo such as Neem Shampoo, Doggone Dirty Flea Shampoo or any good quality natural, hypo allergic shampoo. Rinse the dog completely to remove all soap to help prevent drying the dog's skin. You can also use a topical rinse made with Critter Oil to help as a repellant and to condition the dog's skin.

Comb the dog….

Combing your dog daily with a flea comb will help you determine the effectiveness of your flea elimination efforts. Comb around the dogs tail, stomach and face. Fleas tend to collect more heavily around these areas. Look for fleas, eggs (small white spots) and flea feces (somewhat larger dark spots). Drop everything you find into a glass or bowl of water; it will drown the eggs and fleas. The flea feces is mostly made up of your own dog's blood and will turn the water a reddish brown. This reddish brown color will confirm the presence of fleas even if no adult fleas are found.

Look to the Outdoor Environment….

The outdoor environment focuses on the 99% of the flea population; the non-adult stages of the flea.

Keep the grass cut short and rake leaves to prevent piles where flea eggs, larvae and pupae can harbor.

Try flooding any area of your yard with a garden hose where dog's hang out; this will drown adult fleas and kill the flea larvae, pupae and eggs.

Spray your yard and garden with an in line garden hoes sprayer and a mixture of Critter Oil, dark beer and Dawn dish detergent. This mixture will help repel fleas and will green up your yard as well. Visit our Flea & Tick page for the directions on how to make this spray.

Work the indoor environment…..

Your indoor environment protocol is aimed primarily on the non-adult flea population.

Wash you floors frequently. Flea eggs, larvae and pupae are attracted to cracks and joints in your floors. Washing your floors frequently will help kill the non-adult fleas.

If you have a steam machine you can steam clean your dog's bedding, the floors and the carpets. Use only water in the steamer. The steam will kill both the fleas and the non-adult fleas. It is recommended that you vacuum after you steam the floors to get the dead fleas and dead no-adult fleas out of the home.

Vacuum hard floors and carpeting daily. The vibration and suction of vacuuming will cause the non-adult fleas to be worked loose from the cracks in hard floors and from the fiber of your carpet. It is suggested you seal the vacuum bag each time you vacuum and dispose of the bag. If you want to reuse the bag it should be sealed and placed in a freezer to kill the fleas prior to reusing.

Wash your dog's bedding weekly in hot water and mild detergent or plain white vinegar. You can spray your pet's bedding with Critter Oil spray.

Consider using a carpet/floor/furniture powder made with a mixture of Critter Oil, Borax, Salt and other dry ingredients. This mixture can be dusted on your carpet, floors and furniture, left for about 15 minuets then vacuumed up. The mixture will help kill the non-adult flea population.

Some other options….

Consider using Flee Free. This is a flower essence that uses the vibrational energy of over 21 different flowers to help repel both fleas and ticks. Flee free can be used by placing several drops in your dog's water or for making a spray.

Neem from the Neem Tree is an effective adult flea and flea larvae killer. Both the Neem Spray and the Neem Shampoo we market can help in the controlling fleas on your dog. Neem Spray can be sprayed directly on your dogs coat and worked into the skin to kill both the fleas and flea larvae on the dog. Neem shampoo can be used in conjunction for a more synergistic effect.

We hope the information we have provided will help you develop a consistent, integrated approach to flea management and one that minimizes risks to humans and your animal health.

Please feel free to call us with any questions regarding flea management or any other topic regarding a natural approach to pet health.